Qilai Mountains 奇萊山 (4 days, 50 km, ↑2800 m, ↓3800 m)

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We got very strong experience in Qilai Mountains. These mountains are little mysterious for many ghost stories and some parts are very difficult to overcome. Memories from this trip remain in our mind and we will return there one day. Respect to Qilai soul.

Petr & Eva (August 2013)

Qilai mountains belong to Taroko NP and there is necessary apply for NP permit and later on for permit to mountains (National Police Agency). We applied in July 2013 for NP permit via email, but seems that they have online system in english, please follow instruction there – Entry Permit Application.
First day we entered to Qilai from 合歡山莊 Héhuān shānzhuāng on Road No. 14甲, 33rd kilometer. First kilometers lead to 黑水塘 Hēi shuǐ táng where is small cottage which can be reach even during the dark if you come really late. Under steeper ascent is bigger hute 成功山屋 Chénggōng shānwū, just don’t try sleep in small shelters above the house, because there are many ghost stories about. We continued same day up to the north peak 奇萊北峰 Qí lái běifēng, the ascent was really difficult because you have to climb across roots and rock in first forest part and later on scree and rocky sections up to 3605 masl. We had very cloudy weather and could see anything around.

On the south under nort peak is Chilai shan small house 奇萊山屋 Qí lái shānwū, but we had plan explore also east part from north peak and we continued to 磐石西峰黑水塘營地 (Xifeng camp, no source of water) where we stay overnight in tent. We walk little around and we found some old clothes on very very strange place under rock very close to deep cliff. We still dont know what could happend there, it looks like somebody undress and jump down. Another explanation is that some animal collect it there, but… Eva studied Qilai mountains and she found many ghost stories about, I felt little anxious even I tried to keep clear mind for real explanation.

Anyway we return to our tent and prepared for sleeping and we saw single deer very close to our tent, we didn’t understand why he didn’t scare and came visit us. Actually we got explanation after our trip – deer like taste of human urina and they eat the grass with it. He aslo stood during the night and protect us.

Second day woke up to ugly weather, everywhere around our tent was lot of water. My original plan was continue to east to 磐石山 Pánshí shān and then return, but bad weather allowed explore just little bit around (actually go to 磐石山 is very difficult according to information) and then continue back across north peak to 奇萊山屋 Chilaishan house. We walk in cloud which also brought lot of water and we were weat from walking in high grass.

Finally reach again north peak and start go down to 奇萊山, during short time the weather changed and we could finally see mountains around. The saddle around the house was really amazing and we enjoy looking around. When we reached the house we put out our wet dress on the trees and make it dry quite quickly. We were really happy that weather changed and hoped that tomorrow will be also fine.

We cooked some yummy food and then walked down for water. The stream is really very low and you have to climb down around 150 vertical meters. There were enough bottles and I decided took more fresh water if anybody will come in following days, together brought around 20 L of nice water. We really enjoyed the view around and went sleep soon. The night was in cottage and it was very silent, we still remember the stories about this mountains, for example how somebody made picture and on the back were some figure, but it was nobody from the single group which was there during maiking the photo, more about here.

Third day kicked out very soon because we had to cross very difficult part and didnt want risk any changing of the weather which was very good at the morning.Walking to main peak 奇萊主山 Qí lái zhǔ shān is very easy and you can let your bag under final ascent, main peak is little lower 3560 m than north one, but we could see finally everything around as the cliff ridge which we will have to go and also Hehuanshan mountains 合歡山 (after month run marathon on the road there). The ridge following ridge was difficul and Eva known it, she pray to god lot for good weather and everything smooth.

We spent more then five hours in this cliff, it was really very difficult if you have to carry bigger bag and care about Eva which was very greenhorn in this time. Some parts were very exposed to both sides, usually with scree on one side and with some bush on another. We had to climb vertical down on the ropes on very broken and unstable rocks in some phases. We were happy that we reach small spot for rest (tent can be here in case), but no more easy and very long part was still before us. There were more bushes and even walking on cliff in bamboo and it really seemed to be endless. But finally came to very big scree slide where was little complicated find way (go left down), but we finally swithc it to the forest.

Really happy that everything was smooth and we enjoyed walking under south peak 南華山 in nice green land. We just let bag under sout peak and walked quickly up to the top 南華山 Nán huàshān and then back. On the top was some cottage before many year and you can still see basics of it. Already very tired we went down to the Tianchi cottage 天池山莊 Tiānchí shānzhuāng, where you can do reservation (500 NTD/night, very full usually) many days before or just sleep outside in tent as we did. Eva were really tired and she was happy for a taking nap and I cooked some strange noodles.

We met only one guy in first day and two guys in second day. Te first one was some graduated student and he went clean his brain to mountains, he really made his trip very challenge because he pass the difficult cliff in our second day when weather was really unstable with raining and wind, bu he did it. Then only us pass it in these days, no many people go from main to south.

Fourth day just went down on Western Nen-gao Trail 能高越嶺古道 能高越嶺古道 Néng gāo yuè lǐng gǔdào to exit of mountains close to 廬山 Lúshān. This trail is usually very broken but very fast for walking. Evas mother came for us by car, and first day her brother took us up. We were tired, but very happy that everything was smooth and that Qilai mountains showed us every beauty and even mystery of them. We will return, thank you.

Daily itinerary, map and timing:

Day 1: 奇萊登山口→ 黑水塘(cottage) → 成功山屋 (bigger cottage) → 奇萊北峰 (Chilai North Peak) → 磐石西峰黑水塘營地(tent, water)

Day 2:  磐石西峰黑水塘營地 → 磐石山奇萊北峰 → 奇萊山屋 (Chilaishan house or tent, water 150 m lower)

Day 3: 奇萊山屋 → 奇萊池山 → 奇萊主山 (Chilai main peak) → 卡東(峭壁, cliffts – very difficult part, 5+ hours) →   南峰 登山口 (to south peak, 溪谷,water, in case tent) →  奇萊南峰 → 南華山 (sout peak) → 天池叉路口 → 天池山莊 (house – reservation 500 NTD or tent, water)

Day 4:  能高越嶺古道 Western Nen-gao Trail: 天池山莊 → 瀑布,吊橋 (waterfall) → 雲海保線所 → 屯原 → 道西段入口 (western entrace) → Road No. 14 (car) to 廬山

map:  every days, or in Google maps
gps: every days

MIT台灣誌 document:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0629O7YNlKs

在奇萊的日子 (CH 中文):


第一天: 2013/8/1

行程: 合歡山登山口>黑水塘>成功山屋>奇萊北峰>磐石西峰黑水塘營地






行程: 磐石西峰黑水塘營地>磐石山>奇萊北峰>奇萊山屋




我們背上來的水也都喝完了,所以要到山下河邊去取水,從山屋到水源大約要來回需要40分鐘的時間,蒐集了山屋裡所有空的寶特瓶,我們要開始攀岩下山去取水,這一段路真的不輕鬆,走到水源地是一個瀑布,真難想到三千公尺以的高山居然會有這麼豐沛的水源,山上的水很清很乾淨,一天沒洗澡的我們也稍微清洗一下,哇~山上的水很冷喔!清洗完,我們開使始背著水往上爬,往上攀岩又是另一挑戰,呼~真的累, Petr身上背了十幾二十公斤的水,體力真好。我們不緊僅幫自己,這幾天如果還有其他山友剛好來到山屋的人不用再費心費力去背水。此時,我似乎聽到山神在與我們微笑,接著的天氣出奇的好,我知道山神看到我們所為,並祝福我們的行程,想到這裡,我感動的掉了眼淚,謝謝大自然的神,趁天候的能見好,隨即到附近拍拍照片,剛好在頂端時手機基地台,打電話給媽媽報個平安。


奇萊山屋>奇萊池山>奇萊主山>卡羅樓斷崖 >卡東(峭壁) >南峰登山口>奇萊南峰>天池叉路口>天池山莊




最後,我們終於走到了卡羅樓斷崖的盡頭,我似乎不敢相信我們就這樣走過來了,斷崖盡頭會接到另一側的岩壁石堆,那邊的石頭很大顆,也很鬆動,很難看到先前登山客綁的記號,幾乎都是用石頭堆成的小山,這段走完後,緊接的是一段樹林,感覺這邊有很久時間沒人來過,樹枝雜草叢生,長的好高,看不太前方的路,怪可怕,但畢竟比起卡羅樓斷崖,我覺得還是輕鬆多了,走完這段路後, 突然眼前一片光明,藍天白雲加上一大片草原,真是美極了,感覺我們來到天堂了,這表示我們離奇萊南峰越來越近。在奇萊南峰下,有座小小的水源,我們也把行李上那邊,往上爬到南峰,這邊的路真的就好輕鬆,路也比較大條,這時我們真的可以放輕鬆了,爬上南峰,當然也是要拍些照片留作紀念。




天池山莊>瀑布,吊橋>雲海保線所>屯原>道西段入> Road No. 14 (car) >廬山


This is window to my diary, should works fine on computer:

Few videos

Photos (click for slide show)


成功山屋 (bigger cottage)
between 奇萊北峰 (Chilai North Peak) and cottage
奇萊北峰 (Chilai North Peak)
磐石西峰黑水塘營地(tent, water)
very strange
this was very strange – dress close to deep cliff
deer likes eat human urina


Happy meal
very misterious place
back to north peak
 奇萊山屋 (Chilaishan house or tent, water 150 m lower)
to sout, to main peak
went back and take finally picture of North peak



 奇萊主山 (Chilai main peak)
奇萊主山 (Chilai main peak)
卡東(峭壁, cliffts – very difficult part, 5+ hours)
this was no easy with big bag
place for then in case, but dont wish stay here during the bad weather
many parts were really exponed
walking in bamboo
scree part, have to go left down
way to 南華山 (sout peak
 南峰 登山口 (to south peak, 溪谷,water, in case tent
 南華山 (sout peak)
天池山莊 (house – reservation 500 NTD or tent, water)
天池山莊 (house – reservation 500 NTD or tent, water)
very tired


能高越嶺古道 Western Nen-gao Trail – 瀑布,吊橋 (waterfall
能高越嶺古道 Western Nen-gao Trail
 道西段入口 (western entrace) → Road No. 14 (car) to 廬山

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